Countertop Installation
Our own crew sets your slab level, seamed tight, and sealed — most kitchens in a single day.
Free In-Home Quote
A real measure and a real number, at your kitchen, at no charge. You keep your money until there's a countertop to trade it for.
Where we install
Fabricated in Elk Grove Village, installed across the northwest suburbs.
What this service covers
And, just as usefully, what it does not.
Our own crew sets your slab level, seamed tight, and sealed — most kitchens in a single day.
What we do
- Template appointment — The fabricator laser-measures or physically templates the installed cabinets and walls — capturing out-of-square corners and bowed walls the stone must be scribed to. Takes 1-2 hours. Cabinets must be set, level, and permanent; seam locations and overhangs are agreed on the spot.
- Fabrication at the shop — Slab is cut, cutouts made, edges profiled, and surfaces polished. Typical shops run 1-3 weeks; imported or exotic material can run 4-8 weeks. Fall pre-holiday rush and spring-summer peak stretch queues.
- Tear-out and prep — Old tops come off, plumbing is disconnected, cabinets are checked level and shimmed. Often done the morning of install day; complex tear-outs (tile-over-mortar tops) can take a full day.
- Installation day — Slabs are set, seams joined and color-matched, sink mounted, cooktop cutout fitted. Typically 4-6 hours; large or multi-seam kitchens can run a second day.
- Reconnect plumbing and let adhesives cure — Silicone and seam epoxy cure 24-48 hours before the sink returns to service and heavy loads go on the tops. Faucet and disposal hookup is often a separate plumber visit the next day.
Not in this quote
- Cabinet repair or replacement, and any cabinet levelling beyond shimming for the new top.
- Electrical and gas work; licensed plumbing beyond disconnecting and reconnecting the sink and faucet.
- Municipal permits — countertop-only swaps are usually cosmetic, but permitting is home-rule and varies suburb to suburb.
- Drywall repair, painting, and flooring changes behind or below the work.
How it goes, step by step
5 steps · 6.6–25.2 days from first call to finished counter.
Template appointment
The fabricator laser-measures or physically templates the installed cabinets and walls — capturing out-of-square corners and bowed walls the stone must be scribed to. Takes 1-2 hours. Cabinets must be set, level, and permanent; seam locations and overhangs are agreed on the spot.
Tip: Be home for this one. Decisions made at template (seam placement, overhang depth, backsplash height) are cut in stone — literally.
Fabrication at the shop
Slab is cut, cutouts made, edges profiled, and surfaces polished. Typical shops run 1-3 weeks; imported or exotic material can run 4-8 weeks. Fall pre-holiday rush and spring-summer peak stretch queues.
Tip: This is the quiet gap where nothing seems to happen at your house. If timing matters (holiday, listing), ask for the shop's current queue length before signing — it changes by season.
Tear-out and prep
Old tops come off, plumbing is disconnected, cabinets are checked level and shimmed. Often done the morning of install day; complex tear-outs (tile-over-mortar tops) can take a full day.
Tip: Clear the counters and empty the sink base cabinet the night before. Expect the water to the kitchen to be off from now until reconnection.
Installation day
Slabs are set, seams joined and color-matched, sink mounted, cooktop cutout fitted. Typically 4-6 hours; large or multi-seam kitchens can run a second day.
Tip: Plan dinner out. Keep pets and kids clear — crews are moving several-hundred-pound slabs through your doorways.
Reconnect plumbing and let adhesives cure
Silicone and seam epoxy cure 24-48 hours before the sink returns to service and heavy loads go on the tops. Faucet and disposal hookup is often a separate plumber visit the next day.
Tip: Do not mount the faucet, load the dishwasher against the new top, or stand mixer-anything on the counters until the cure window passes. Ask who reconnects plumbing — fabricators often do not.
What it costs
Ace's installed ranges by kitchen size, plus benchmark costs for common add-ons.
| Kitchen size | Engineered Quartz | Granite | Quartzite | Marble |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Galley kitchens (30–45 sqft) | $3,600–$6,750 | $4,200–$7,650 | $4,500–$8,550 | $5,100–$9,000 |
| Small kitchens (45–60 sqft) | $5,400–$9,000 | $6,300–$10,200 | $6,750–$11,400 | $7,650–$12,000 |
| Medium kitchens (60–75 sqft) | $7,200–$11,250 | $8,400–$12,750 | $9,000–$14,250 | $10,200–$15,000 |
| Large kitchens (75–90 sqft) | $9,000–$13,500 | $10,500–$15,300 | $11,250–$17,100 | $12,750–$18,000 |
| Extra large kitchens (90–120 sqft) | $10,800–$18,000 | $12,600–$20,400 | $13,500–$22,800 | $15,300–$24,000 |
Installed project ranges as of 2026-07 — template, fabrication and standard installation included. Your exact number comes from a free in-home template.
Extras & line items
| Line item | Typical range | Unit | As of |
|---|---|---|---|
| Faucet/accessory hole drilled in stone countertop | $65–$120 | per hole | 2026-07 |
| Butcher block countertop installed | $40–$80 | per sq ft | 2026-07 |
| Concrete countertop installed | $65–$135 | per sq ft | 2026-03 |
| Granite countertop installed | $40–$100 | per sq ft | 2026-07 |
| Kitchen countertop project, 30-50 sqft | $2,000–$10,000 | per project | 2026-07 |
| Laminate countertop installed | $15–$40 | per sq ft | 2026-07 |
| Marble countertop installed | $60–$150 | per sq ft | 2026-07 |
| Porcelain slab countertop installed | $50–$100 | per sq ft | 2026-07 |
| Quartz countertop installed | $50–$120 | per sq ft | 2026-07 |
| Quartzite countertop installed | $70–$150 | per sq ft | 2026-07 |
| Sink cutout | $150–$400 | per cutout | 2026-07 |
| Sintered stone (Dekton-class) countertop installed | $60–$130 | per sq ft | 2026-03 |
Chicago-market benchmarks for common add-ons — not an Ace quote; your number depends on square footage, edge profile, cutouts and tear-out.
Materials we work with
Price tier, care level and independent durability ratings, side by side.
| Material | Price tier | Care | Heat | Scratch | Stain | Etch |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Quartz | Mid | Low | 2/5 | 4/5 | 5/5 | 4/5 |
| Granite | Mid | Medium | 4/5 | 4/5 | 4/5 | 4/5 |
| Quartzite | Premium | Medium | 5/5 | 5/5 | 3/5 | 4/5 |
| Marble | Premium | High | 4/5 | 2/5 | 2/5 | 1/5 |
| Porcelain slab | Mid | Low | 5/5 | 5/5 | 5/5 | 5/5 |
| Soapstone | Premium | Medium | 5/5 | 1/5 | 5/5 | 5/5 |
| Butcher block | Budget | High | 2/5 | 2/5 | 2/5 | 3/5 |
| Laminate | Budget | Low | 1/5 | 2/5 | 4/5 | 3/5 |
| Solid surface | Mid | Low | 2/5 | 2/5 | 4/5 | 3/5 |
| Concrete | Premium | High | 4/5 | 3/5 | 2/5 | 2/5 |
| Recycled glass | Premium | Medium | 3/5 | 3/5 | 3/5 | 2/5 |
Durability 1–5, higher is better. Ratings are independent, not manufacturer marketing.
The honest trade-offs
- Quartz — Nonporous, never needs sealing, excellent stain resistance, consistent repeatable patterns, easy soap-and-water care Trade-off: Resin binder scorches or discolors around 300F so hot pans are off-limits; heat damage excluded from manufacturer warranties; not UV-stable for outdoor use; seams visible on light solids
- Granite — Tolerates hot cookware; every slab unique; excellent scratch resistance; decades-long service life Trade-off: Porous — some stones benefit from periodic sealing; can chip at edges and sink corners; pattern variation makes seam matching harder
- Quartzite — Harder than granite; takes hot pans; marble look without marble softness; one-of-a-kind slabs Trade-off: Needs sealing; premium price; some stone sold as quartzite is softer marble-family rock — verify with scratch/acid test; limited color range vs quartz
- Marble — Classic look; naturally cool surface prized by bakers; ages into a patina many owners love; honed finishes hide wear well Trade-off: Etches on contact with acids (lemon, wine, tomato) — no sealer prevents it; softer and more scratch/chip-prone than granite; stains if unsealed and neglected
- Porcelain slab — Thin, very heat- and UV-stable; works as counters and full-height backsplashes Trade-off: Edges can chip on impact; pattern is often printed on the surface rather than through the body
- Soapstone — Impervious to acids and stains; never needs sealing; scratches sand out easily Trade-off: Soft — will scratch and dent; darkens with oiling; limited color range (charcoal-green grays)
- Butcher block — Warm look; gentle on dishes and knives; fully renewable by sanding and re-oiling; lowest-cost solid surface after laminate Trade-off: Standing water is its enemy — sink perimeters blacken and rot without upkeep; needs regular oiling; dents and knife marks accumulate
- Laminate — Cheapest installed option; huge range of prints including convincing stone looks; light weight suits older cabinets Trade-off: Particleboard core swells permanently when water enters seams or sink perimeter; scorches with no repair path; cannot support most undermount sinks; hard to repair — damage usually means replacement
- Solid surface — Seams fuse invisibly; integrated sinks and coved backsplashes possible (health-inspector friendly); scratches sand out Trade-off: Scratches and scorches more easily than stone; reads less premium at resale; mid pricing overlaps entry stone
- Concrete — Fully custom: any shape, integral drainboards, pigments, embedded objects; industrial-organic look that ages with character; very heat-tolerant material under the sealer. Trade-off: Hairline cracks are normal, not a defect — perfectionists should pass; porous without diligent sealing (yearly or more) plus waxing; acids etch both sealer and cement paste; extremely heavy (18-20 lb/sqft) — cabinets may need reinforcement; cost is labor, so rarely cheap.
- Recycled glass — Highest verified recycled content of any counter surface; distinctive terrazzo look; resin-bound versions are non-porous and stain-resistant Trade-off: Few Midwest fabricators stock it, so lead times and service vary; cement-bound versions need periodic sealing and can chip at edges; limited color range vs quartz
Mistakes that cost people money
Every one of these shows up on jobs we get called in to fix.
Attempting a DIY slab countertop install
What it costs you: Slab stone is heavy and brittle in the wrong axis: DIY moves crack slabs at sink cutouts, chip finished edges, and injure backs - and self-install usually voids the fabricator warranty.
How to avoid it: Let the fabricator crew template, carry, and set the stone; if you want DIY savings, take on demolition, painting, or the backsplash instead.
Already done it? Small chips can be epoxy-repaired by a stone pro; a crack across a cutout usually means re-fabricating that section.
Budgeting from the slab showroom price instead of an installed quote
What it costs you: Templating, fabrication, cutouts, edge work, transport, tearout, and reinforcement add substantially to the material price - sticker shock arrives with the first real quote.
How to avoid it: Get installed, itemized quotes from fabricators early and budget from those numbers; treat advertised per-square-foot prices as marketing.
Already done it? Trim an installed price by simplifying: fewer seams, a standard edge profile, a standard sink cutout, and keeping the existing layout.
Buying a bold, trendy backsplash tile straight from the store display
What it costs you: In your kitchen light, against your counters and cabinets, the pattern overwhelms the room or clashes - and backsplash regret sits at eye level, every day.
How to avoid it: Bring samples home and view them morning and evening against the actual countertop and cabinet finishes; pair a patterned backsplash with quiet countertops (and vice versa).
Already done it? Backsplash re-dos are the least painful fix in the kitchen: a typical 30-40 sq ft field is a modest re-tile compared with replacing tops or cabinets.
Buying the sink after the countertop template appointment
What it costs you: Re-template fee of $75-$150, a week or more of schedule slip, or - if templating proceeded from a spec sheet - a cutout that does not match the actual sink, which cannot be fixed.
How to avoid it: Order the sink first and have it physically on site (with the faucet spec sheet) before template day; fireclay sinks can vary up to 2% from nominal dimensions.
Already done it? Pay the re-template fee and wait for a new appointment; never let a mismatched cutout be "made to work" with oversized caulk joints.
Calling the countertop fabricator only after the cabinets are finished
What it costs you: Fabricators book out weeks ahead; latecomers get rushed slab choices from whatever is in stock and can wait 2-6 weeks with a torn-up kitchen between cabinet work and countertop install.
How to avoid it: Start countertop conversations 1-3 months before your target install date, before cabinet decisions are final - a good fabricator flags layout problems (seams, overhangs, sink fit) while they are still cheap to change.
Already done it? Bridge the gap by loosely resetting the old tops or fitting a temporary plywood or laminate top so the sink and cooktop stay usable while you wait.
Choosing 2cm stone without planning for its limits
What it costs you: Thin 2cm tops need edge build-up to get the standard chunky look, tolerate only about 6 inches of unsupported overhang, and are less forgiving over uneven cabinets.
How to avoid it: In most Midwest markets 3cm is the kitchen standard; choose 2cm deliberately (weight, cost, thin modern look) with the fabricator support plan in writing.
Already done it? Add continuous plywood decking and brackets beneath 2cm tops to stiffen spans and overhangs.
How long it takes
6.6–25.2 days in total — most of it is fabrication, not install day.
| Stage | Typical duration | Who |
|---|---|---|
| Template appointment | 0.1–5 hr | Fabricator |
| Fabrication at the shop | 5–21 days | Fabricator |
| Tear-out and prep | 0.3–1 day | Contractor |
| Installation day | 0.3–1 day | Fabricator |
| Reconnect plumbing and let adhesives cure | 1–2 days | Contractor |
Calendar days, not working hours. Slab availability is the usual variable.
Warranty
Lifetime Installation Warranty
- Covers
- Labor
- Duration
- Lifetime
Our workmanship — seams, level, and fit — is warranted for the life of the countertop.
Questions about countertop installation
Are concrete countertops as low-maintenance as they look?
No — concrete is one of the highest-maintenance counters despite its industrial toughness. It needs resealing at least yearly (plus waxing in between), acids etch both the sealer and the cement paste, and hairline cracks from curing and settling are considered normal, not defects. Budget-wise it is also not a shortcut: at $65-135/sq ft installed you are paying artisan labor rates. Choose it for the custom look, not to save money or effort — or get the same aesthetic in a concrete-look quartz.
Are countertops priced by the square foot or by the slab — and why does it matter?
Quotes are usually expressed per square foot, but stone is bought by the slab, and that mismatch explains several surprises. If your kitchen needs 55 sq ft and slabs run 50 sq ft, you are buying two slabs and paying for the waste — sometimes a small layout tweak that fits one slab saves four figures. It also makes vein placement a real decision: ask to see your countertop outlines laid over the actual slab before cutting, so the dramatic vein lands on the island rather than under the dish rack.
Are countertops really cheaper downstate than in Chicago?
Generally yes - regional surveys put installed granite around $86 and quartz around $78 per square foot in the Peoria area versus roughly $100 and $91 in Chicago, reflecting lower labor and overhead. The slab material itself costs about the same statewide, so most of the gap is fabrication and install labor; downstate you also avoid the high-rise access and permit-parking surcharges common in the city.
Are decorative edges like ogee harder to keep clean?
Modestly, yes. The concave channel in an ogee, cove, or DuPont profile traps crumbs, grease, and dried cleaning spray, so those edges need a deliberate detail wipe instead of one pass with a cloth. Eased, pencil, and bullnose edges clean in a single wipe, while a chiseled rock-face edge is the hardest of all because the rough texture holds dust. None of this is a dealbreaker - it is one extra wipe - but if you hate fussy cleaning, stay with a smooth, simple profile.
Are recycled-glass countertops as durable as regular quartz?
Resin-bound recycled-glass surfaces behave much like engineered quartz: non-porous, stain-resistant, and never in need of sealing. Cement-bound versions are closer to polished concrete — they want periodic sealing and their edges can chip under impact. Neither type tolerates hot pans directly. The bigger practical issue in Illinois, Wisconsin, and Indiana is availability: fewer fabricators stock recycled glass, so compare warranties and local service before committing, and note that recycled-content quartz lines from major brands can deliver similar green credentials with easier sourcing.
Are the dramatic veined slabs and waterfall islands all over Instagram practical in an ordinary Midwest kitchen?
They can be, but scale and budget both matter. A bold, heavily veined slab can overwhelm a small closed-off kitchen — many bungalow and ranch kitchens in the Midwest are compact, and a busy pattern reads much louder in person than in a wide-angle photo of a big open plan. Waterfall edges are also a genuine cost item, not just a style choice: the mitered corners and extra vertical stone typically add $1,000-$3,000 to an island as of mid-2026 fabricator pricing. In a smaller kitchen that money usually does more for you in a better material grade, better lighting, or an upgraded sink.
Ready for a real number?
One visit, one number, no end-of-job surprises. We template digitally and fabricate in our own Elk Grove Village shop.
Ready for a real number?
Free in-home template and an honest quote — you keep your money until there's a countertop to trade it for.